28.9.10

Two for One Special

This is my friend Angela.  She's brave, real brave.
And right now she's back in Haiti teaching my classes for me this week while I'm in the DR. Thanks Angela!

Now for a story:

For a moment everything was calm.  My bus of screaming, squealing, heckling Haitian men had finally, FINALLY fallen into a nice deep sleep.  Slight annoyed that one of the louder of the absurdly loud men had chosen to plop himself down beside me, I craned my aching neck as far in the other direction as possible, and proceeded to fade into the peaceful sounds of Dominican raindrops against the bus window.

Sometime later, being only slightly aware of our halt, I peered through the crack of my eyelids and focused my vision.  My stare was instantly met with a pistol. Now granted my seat was reclined and it was only the handle of the gun hanging out of a man’s belt that was visible, but still…it was most definitely all up in my grill.  And it most definitely made my heart skip a beat.

About this time, being especially pleased the large loud Haitian was squeezed in the seat beside me, I calmly told myself to go back to sleep.

Making eye contact, I was certain, would result in the armed Dominican yelling, “YOU…come with me” pointing at the only little white girl in sight.

Because of such intuition I quickly closed my eyes to maintain the appearance of a sincere snooze, and then…boom, sound asleep for another several hours.

I can’t actually recall the last time I snuggled down in a tiny Haitian bus seat falling into a deep state of REM sleep after coming face to face with an plain clothed Dominican man baring arms and making rounds on our bus…however, it seemed to come quite naturally.

The End

As for today, It's a rainy day...and i'm talking RAINY.  I could easily make today a 3 poster, but I'll save the next post for another rainy day (aka tomorrow).

This song's for Angela, but in no way represents her as a person.

by The Walkmen

Twitter, I love u. u nice.



As I sit in my hotel room in the Dominican Republic and stare at Tropical Storm Matthew out the window I’m thinking to myself….

Dsquared: I love your Spring 2011 collection, especially those hipster rims you paired with each look on the runway…

And Armani: I think your spring line is BEAUTIFUL…

BUT Roberto Cavalli: your Hippy meets Pocahontas spring line is just ridiculous…


by Will.i.am

23.9.10

Pigeon Problems.




This is a series of Tweets posted on Twitter by an account holder:

Going to bed, put the pigeon in the kitchen with a full loaf of wonder bread and put cardboard so she can’t fly upstairs to my room, g-night.

People keep asking how I know she’s pregnant?  Her lil pigeon nipples are swollen and sticking out, belly is huge to, 2 pregnant signs.

I’m really sad, lil pregnant pigeon is looking at me like what now with a lil tear going down her lil beak, how do you console a bird?

Man I am on my roof and male pigeon just escaped leaving the female, wtf, just like a dude in real life and she’s pregnant, notcool

Damit she’s pregnant!!!! I knew I shouldn’t have kept these pigeons together in the same cage, I’m pissed off!


Today a friend emailed this to me, I read it several times, and then tonight after reading it for a final time, I almost threw up I was laughing so hard.  
I'm absolutely getting a twitter.
Thank you.




by Arcade Fire

22.9.10

Happy Bird Day



The things I would have never before considered “normal” are rapidly becoming the occurrences that make up my daily routine.

Awaking each morning to the crowing of roosters is pretty sensible, however the complete neglect of time or scheduling these roosters seem to live by also results in my being lulled to sleep each night by their screams.

Another oddity to which I have grown so accustomed that I now almost regard as mundane is the scampering of rats and mice throughout the entire house.  Their games I first noticed in the kitchen.  (Not an ideal location for rodents, I realize, but far enough from my room to keep me at ease.) As the weeks grew on I began to observe their hide and seek shenanigans elsewhere.  In the living room, under my chair, right across my feet, in and out of bedrooms (not mine!) they seem to be having such fun that its almost enjoyable to watch. 

One more scenario that I have found to be far from occasional is the attendance of toddlers to my college level English classes.  On days when my students have no one to care for their children, the kids just tag along. As well behaved, as any children I’ve ever encountered it really poses no problem for me to administer an exam with a test taker’s baby on my hip.

Then there’s shower time.  Upon first moving to Haiti and realizing that showering, as I knew it would not be happening…ever again, I experienced a brief moment of panic.  Filling my five-gallon bucket with ice cold water every night, and pouring cup full’s over my body did not initially seem like an ideal circumstance.  However, it was almost immediately that this outlook changed.  The pivotal moment was my second day in the country, feeling especially filthy and covered in dust, I ventured into the bathroom to douse myself with water.  One giant scoop of water poured directly over my face, and that was it. A feeling of refreshment I had never before experienced.  It was so revitalizing that I could not help but to grin.  I was sold. I now smile, every single night, as I shower.

The regular power outages would probably be considered the most inconvenient aspect of my new way of life, or at least by many standards.  The frequency of blackouts in Haiti is the antithesis of sporadic.  The timing of these outages can be accurately pinpointed down to the minute.  This is because here in Haiti, we lose power, on the minute, every two minutes, for an average of 30 seconds.  The loss and return of light at such a high rate of recurrence ensures that after one day of experiencing this glitch it becomes a part of the subconscious. 

My favorite element of living with all these hassles is the total absence of frustration surrounding me.  I can positively state that there is not one individual in Haiti who would throw up their hands in the face of these hardships.  Roosters, rats, power outages, bucket showers, they are nothing.  This of course is because there are far bigger fish to fry for the people of Haiti, but the ironic fact remains that their willingness to accept reality and still enjoy their days produces a far more relaxed and stress free environment. I’ll take it!



by: Sleigh Bells

14.9.10

Tuesday's ART


I live in Haiti, so as you can imagine I am gradually becoming accustomed to expecting the unexpected. 

Just yesterday I was ambushed by rioting needy villagers fighting over the small collection of children’s clothing I planned on distributing civilly.  My idea of sorting the box of donations by size and fitting each child for just the right garment was quickly tossed out the window, as were the dresses when the mob forced me into the back seat of the rocking car.  After each lunging hand had disappeared from the open window panes of our vehicle, I laughed with a stomach full of butterflies.  It was an experience, that was certain, but not all that surprising.  I live in Haiti, these people are in need; they are hungry for anything!

The real surprise was when a 70 year old white man with painted toenails, wearing swim trunks, a multi colored striped shirt, and an orange doorag, stepped into my life on what was a fairly typical Tuesday morning. 

The name was Art Saggs.  I couldn’t forget it if I tried.  – Art would of course find me on the one and only day I was left a lone, while my babysitter living companion, mentor, and caretaker  ventured to Port Au Prince for the day, 5 hours away. Art's demeanor curious, and not all that offensive, I found it quite easy to pick up conversation with the stranger.  Interested only in the basic details of my story (which was more than fine by me), he immediately divulged his in entirety. Art elaborated on his history in Haiti, a retired lawyer (disbarred is more like it) with 12 years of annual visits to the country under his belt ultimately leading to his permanent residency. Then before we had been three minutes acquainted Art was navigating me through his email account and Vanguard retirement plan portfolio.  (His hands just slightly too shaky to do it himself.)  Art’s master plan was to build a beautiful guesthouse on the beach of Jacmel Haiti.  His tales of the future sounded picturesque.  His knowledge of all the most spectacular waterfalls in the country was mesmerizing.  I was taking the bait.  – As he shared with me his email login password, we shifted gears.  Art began to very emphatically dictate a letter, which I scrambled to type.  The content was bothersome to say the least.  He was lashing out at a committee from the United States, of some sort, which had just recently “disallowed him the expenditure of certain funds.”   As the letter grew more graphic, Art covered his face to hide the emotional moment. Then, just as I sealed the email “Yours Truly, Art Saggs” – the mysterious man with whom I had so quickly become familiar lowered his hands, revealing a smile and declared “Ha! PUT THAT IN YOUR PIPE AND SMOKE IT!”

Things seemed to be getting stranger by the second, but each time they took a turn for the worse, Art quickly drew me back in.  On one occasion he opened my eyes to the little known organization “Clowns Without Boarders”.  Surely this was a joke…Nope. Groups of individuals traveling to areas of devastation in clown attire making balloon animals for children, oh its real, he assured me.

Shortly after the entertaining clown conversation Art quite openly shared something with me that sent the entire situation from bizarre to potential crisis status.  He had just escaped from a mental intuition in Port Au Prince.  Sawing through rebar, fighting guards, he fled with little more than his life.  “You see, I’m bipolar, and well the officials in Port Au Prince at the time seemed to think for some reason, that I needed my rest.” (Who the hell knows what that actually means?) Art explained as to how he initially got into the entire predicament. 

Playing it cool as a cucumber, I replied, “Oh man that’s a bummer, are they looking for you?”  Then with a mischievous but very nonthreatening smirk that I had so promptly come to know, he giggled, “Ohhh, I’m looking for Them!”

Wanting to know more, while at the same time desperately wanting to move on from this topic, I had come to terms with the fact that this situation had no chance of getting less weird.  I was right.

Next cyber stop: Art’s Vanguard retirement portfolio.  Once again leaving all the computer work in my hands…Art gave me a quick crash course on retirement funds.  My eyes fixed on the screen; I was peering inside this man’s financial life in a nutshell.  Art had me clicking here, and typing there - “Submit” he instructed, then boom, we were done.  Art sold all 950 shares of his stock with the click of my finger. “Ha, I’m depleting my retirement” he laughed with a carefree air.

The problem however, was not that Art had just drained all his money…the problem was that he could not actually get his hands on this money for another few days.  The severity of this became much more clear upon being informed that he actually didn’t have a penny to his name at this moment and he desperately needed 2000 gouds (US$50) to get back to Jacmel.  This, I’m sure you can assume, immediately proceeded his plea for money.  Problem number two however, I had no money either.  Now, if only the story ended here…Art should have clearly taken this as a sign that he needed to exhaust his efforts else where, but no.  At this time I reluctantly allowed him to make some phone calls on my Haitian pay as you go cell.  However, two hours in and Art had neither paid me for using every last one of my minutes nor gone!

After patiently listening as he hit dead end after dead end in an attempt to secure gas money, I realized that what started as a strange meeting, had suddenly turned into an all day affair.  My conversational replies became shorter, hoping if I ignored the situation it would disappear as quickly as it had come. However there was no quick fix, and my lack of interest did not discourage.  I learned several more fun facts before it was all said and done.  Art had slept on the street last night. The street in Haiti!!! I also learned of Art’s womanizing ways.  He loved very much his Haitian girlfriend but this did not keep him from pursing several other women living in the United States. (via my cell phone.) Finally, some sister of a friend came through.  She delivered 1000 gouds rather than his requested 2000.  But this donation would get him halfway home and he would figure the rest out from there. 

With a “Bon voyage” and a wave of my hand, I bid the rambling man a farewell.  “But not to worry my dear,” Art assured me, “We will meet again soon!”


by The Thrills

I just recently rediscovered this album...the entire thing simply marvelous!

13.9.10

Hold your nose and blow.



The mass quantity of garbage in this country is indescribable.  If I were to attempt to convey such a horror I would perhaps do so by explaining the grotesque way in which waste is displayed in the form of mountains bordering every street.  I would share with you the truth that when a piece of trash is placed in a trash can, at school, at home, anywhere…and that trashcan eventually becomes full, it is carried only several steps out the front door and emptied into the streets. Each discarded item piling on top of the other, as motorbikes and bare feet simultaneously trample the debris into a muddy heap of disgust. These are the pictures I would attempt to paint for you… And still this would, in fact, be a fantastic understatement! Yet the fault of this situation can in no way be handed to the people discarding of litter with any particular frequency.  The reality is the complete lack of any sort of infrastructure that could support a waste management system.  Solutions? I’m sure a little brainstorming could produce many…but for now, if you visit Haiti try to leave nothing behind.  I am doing my very best to discard of the least amount of garbage possible.  I have been here almost two weeks, and have thrown nothing away.  

The real question on everyone’s mind, I’m sure , is “Does it smell?”  -- The answer: oh does it ever!  I am quite surprised we cannot be smelled from the shore of Miami.  Those from the Dominican Republic approaching the Haitian border must, most certainly, hold their noses and gag.

That being said…it is all the other aspects of Haiti that make withstanding the squalor manageable.  Its the genuine nature of Haitian culture, and the people’s uplifting spirit that makes Haiti, toxic rubbish and all, one of the most wonderful places I’ve ever experienced. 

Come to Haiti.  Send your Money!…Just leave your garbage at home – we have enough to go around.

I could have easily chosen to attach a photo of the waste mounds here, but instead I decided to accompany this grimy post with these photos of my beautiful roommate Bail.  She is the picture of loveliness at all times.






Enjoy this little ditty from The Blow…who sadly are no more.


by The Blow

12.9.10

Haiti PAP peri

(Haiti Is NOT Dying)

For the past three days I’ve been working side by side with a friendly computer tech.  His English proficiency being equivalent to my kreyol, did not allow our conversations to extend much past the typical pleasantries.  Last night he ate dinner at our house…thanks to a translator, we for the first time, were able to have a semi legitimate conversation.  It was then that I was told, he, this man with whom I’d been exchanging simple greetings all week, had been trapped for 4 days under rubble in Port Au Prince after the earthquake.  His comforting smile and nervous laugh had in no way prepared me for this discovery.  The horrific disaster of January 12th really did happen, and it happened to him, the man sitting across the table from me. He drank his own urine for days waiting for his friends, who he was able to call from his cell phone, to dig to his rescue.



by Cold War Kids

11.9.10

REAL G'S NEVER WAKE UP BEFORE NOON

The following may or may not be a true story…and this may or may not have happened to me, or someone I know.

However, rest assured…if in fact it is true, it most certainly will not happen again.

Alone in my house, tuned into the night sounds beyond my open-air window, I began to ponder the importance of having my pay-as-you-go cell phone loaded with viable minutes.  My desire to communicate with friends and family perhaps lit the initial spark, but it was for safety reasons that my phone really should be ready for action at a moments notice - I justified. As my imagination ran wild, and after a brief stand off with my minute-less cell, I caved.  Fully aware of the phone card vendors stationed in bulk just beyond my gate I made the judgment call to venture out into the night.  The brief nature of my excursion would no doubt prevent the attraction of any lurking dangers.  However, immediately upon the impulse leap from the security of my home, I of course became a magnet for all the unsupervised delinquents roaming the streets.  Very common in Haiti are the wreck-less bands of young boys prowling in the shadows, up to absolutely no good. 

“Take me to your house.” They harassed over and over.

Avoiding any remote interpretation of eye contact, I strengthened my stride.  The boys followed suit.  Almost before I’d taken another step one preteen had his hand down my pocket, seizing my keys.  A swift reaction allowed me to catch his boney wrist in my clutch, yanking the chain from his miniature fist.  However, before a feeling of victory could even remotely surface, another boy, perhaps 15, dipped his thieving hand into the opposite pocket capturing my cell phone, the original purpose for the entire mistaken endeavor.  With no second thought or even blink of an eye, before I knew it my fist was making contact with the little punk’s face.  I punched him.  To accompany the punch I release a blood-curdling scream and the boy quickly tossed me the phone as his friends ran away laughing.   Relief would have been ideal, but in reality all I was left with, besides my rightful possessions, was a racing heart.



by K.Flay

The photo above is a David Choe collage hanging in my bedroom here in Haiti. More Haiti pics will be added to my photo section as they become available. Also a special thanks to the contributor of this super fly melody.   

8.9.10

i love you. u nice.

Tallest Man on Earth...u nice, real nice.
Do me this one favor? - love this guy, i know you will.

the BLANC from the blog


Just as a threatening but harmless dark cloud overtook the blistering heat, the classes of 2010/2011 trickled into the gated courtyard of our Universite. What the afternoon had in store would be a brief but entertaining orientation session.  Unnerved by the thought of an initial meet and greet in kreyol I postponed my entrance as long as possible. I had hoped to deliver my introduction with confidence and successfully establish myself as a respected teacher. Attempting to do so in kreyol would no doubt produce an eruption of laughter followed by jokes.  Almost all of these 350 students would be taking one of my 4 English classes, and the majority were at least my age or older.  Upon realizing my hesitation, the dean of the school encouraged me to interact en anglais!  The students were not only responsive to my American introduction, but genuinely excited.  Relief set in, and so did the confidence.  I was at ease…almost. 

Soon we were gathering under a covered pavilion and to my surprise everyone immediately flocked to sit around me, the Blanc.  As Pere Ajax, the Universite administrator, began to ramble swiftly I was once again at a complete lose with the exception of being aware that my name was being frequently interjected in his speech. As quickly as I recognized his mention of me, I noticed all eyes dart in my direction.  Repeatedly he returned to the topic of English and the Blanc teacher.  I eventually came to realize this was the reiteration of how fortunate my presences was for their university.  “There are many many English teachers in this town. They are all Haitian, but ours…Ours is from the United States.” He echoed proudly.  My lack of kreyol was a bonus in their eyes, requiring the students to, at all times, speak English with their kreyol-impaired teacher, and as a result, perfecting their conversation skills.  The students graciously welcomed me periodically throughout the afternoon, most often inquiring about my marital status.  As the orientation came to a close, I was approached one last time.  The girl was small, her frame petite, her smile enormous, and her English understandable.  She articulated that she had no explanation but upon seeing me she felt we had been long time friends.  As she spoke the words I felt it too.  Perhaps it was the lack of my having shared an English speaking interaction with another person in almost a week, or perhaps we really are destined to be zanmi.  Regardless, the comfort and excitement I received from meeting my students provided me with a burst of energy and creativity which I have been desperately craving after a week of pouring over my kreyol English dictionary! 

I hope you enjoy this Architecture In Helsinki song as I think it will be the inspiration for my next vocabulary lesson!

by Architecture In Helsinki

7.9.10

Low Blow


Weaving in and out of the densely populated and dangerously narrow streets of a crumbled Port Au Prince I observed the masses of meandering people coated in the white powder of cinder block rubble being churned up by the racing cars and motor bikes battling for road space. I quickly recognized the city I had visited a year prior to the quake.  People lounging at their vendor’s stand, waiting for a breeze that might never come.  Naked babies and goats roaming in heaps of garbage.  It was all the same, and yet an additional devastating factor had very evidently been added to those already in existence.  How could things possibly get worse I remember thinking a year before.  This country could go nowhere but up, I was sure.  And then, just like that, the dilapidated capital city, which yes, housed poverty, joblessness, and malnutrition but nevertheless served as some sort of foundation for this country, came crashing to the ground.

The density and range of destruction and disorder in Haiti since the earthquake of January 12th can hardly be portrayed in photograph, much less writing.  There is fallen building upon fallen building and the streets are packed with crowds of people which is typical for Haiti, especially Port Au Prince, the difference now is these people are all living in tents.  As I began my trek through PAP the magnitude of this disaster really set in…but it wasn’t until we had traveled 2 hours outside the capital city, still surrounded by tent villages for as far as the eye could see, that full on shock took hold.  An entire country of tents…its unfathomable. 

And yet, the screams of disaster have hushed.  People are no longer running in panic.  Instead, what I saw in the mist of the mountains beyond mountains of rubble were people laughing, people holding hands, people gathered around tables playing cards.   The landscape revealed tragedy but the people within the landscape depicted a type of subtle and natural strength, that has allowed an entire country to continue to function, to survive, much like it miraculously did before but now with even fewer local resources.  


The Lucky One by user2355813
by Au Revoir Simone

3.9.10

Bieber Fever en AYITI


Today I stumbled upon two little boys singing Justin Bieber's smash hit "Baby" feat. the one and only Ludacris, a personal favorite of mine...needless to say it made me feel right at home.  

It was so nice to hear Bieber’s silky smooth prepubescent voice in the middle of the chaos of Haiti that I was only slightly bummed when the kids did Not seem impressed as I began to sing all the words...

Rather than hitting you with a little more Bieber right now, which would be oh so appropriate, I will instead share with you a track from the new Arcade Fire album. 


 by Arcade Fire from their new album “The Suburbs”

This track is seemingly relevant to my current location, but only by name.

I will follow up with a more legitimate post soon!